“No! Had we known, we would have stayed an extra weekend!” and “Phew! We would have arrived a day earlier if we had known!”are exactly the two phrases most often repeated by our customers when they discover they have just missed the Borgomaro festivals, the traditional and immortal ritual that enlivens the summer evenings of our Impero Valley and beyond.
In fact, you should know that the sagra originates as a typical festival for the patron saint of a village, during which other activities such as fairs, dances, and various entertainments can also take place. This is a type of celebration that here in Liguria, especially in the hinterland, is still synonymous with fun, revelry and goliardy, even among the youngest.
In fact, the term ‘sagra‘ is no longer used only to define the celebration of the patron saint, but the extension of the term generally encompasses a large village party accompanied by good food, wine and lots of music. Normally, all this is made possible by the collaboration of the municipal administration and the local Pro Loco, in this case the U Castello association, which for decades now has succeeded in the magical feat of bringing us all together to give us these magical evenings. Suffice it to say that my parents took their first steps, first words and first dances together on the smooth, festively decorated slate squares where young people of their age used to meet in the evenings for dancing and chatting… not movida and discos!
Generally speaking, each town proposes an annual event in the summer (normally on Saturdays, but possibly also an entire weekend) where during dinner a typical dish is served, among the many culinary proposals, which will then give its name to the evening (e.g.: the festival of fried bread). We, in Borgomaro, propose two dates… because we know how to cook so well that we didn’t want you to miss anything! Would you like to know what the specialities are?
I can see you scratching your tummies with your mouths watering!
First of all, these are dinners en plein air: long wooden benches, large tables, farmer’s wine (as Elena likes to call it) and off to crowd the carruggi. Very good, very spartan, but that’s how we like it!
The ticket office opens at 19:00/19:30 and the plan is based on a single rule: grab the first seats! Don’t delay, scramble through the crowd as if that plate of kebabs was the last one left on the face of the earth. Once you’ve got your tickets at the till, if you are lucky enough to have a partner by your side, send him or her straight to the queue for the evening’s main course, or that steaming juicy portion of fresh pasta will alas remain just a memory.
In the meantime it’s time to take care of the liquids: look for the BAR till and stock up on what you need, then it’s time to find a vacant spot where you can settle in to wait for the glorious return of your partner holding the tray of delicacies.
All right, all right, you want to know what we eat and especially when we eat. Here are the dates, I’ll see you there and whoever doesn’t come is a belinone!
Last weekend in May: her majesty the reina paella (remember what I told you about scoffing like it was the last dish in the world? Here, keep that in mind)
Early or mid-July weekend: take note, you will have the opportunity to taste President Mino’s inimitable Saracen mussels, which for years now have been making people flock to our square from all over. A word of advice? Pick up some bread and don’t forget to make the very Italian scarpetta in the cooking sauce!
And for those who don’t like any of these three dishes? Fear not: rabbit Ligurian style, the famous minestrone, ratatuia, condiglione, gorgonzola and quintals of grilled meat await you!
When summer arrives and the temperature rises, what could be better than a nice fresh ice cream? Away with the five best ice cream parlours in Imperia, in our opinion!
P.s.: the order is scattered, my friends from Imperia do not swear!
1. The Historical: Gelateria Pinotto
Via Scarincio, 98 – 18100 Imperia
The perennial crowd outside this ice-cream parlour may discourage you… or it may give you the assurance of the goodness of its ice cream! Pinotto is an institution among the master ice-cream makers of Porto Maurizio and therefore a must for ice-cream lovers.
2. The Ligurian: Gelateria Sharbè – da Gaetanina
Via de Geneys, 3 – 18100 Imperia
No sign outside, little fuss inside: Gaetanina and her husband are Ligurian DOC and it is immediately noticeable. Fresh ingredients from the hinterland, an impeccable dedication to fruit flavours that are offered in truly unique and high quality dressings, free cream… but be careful: enter by the entrance and leave by the exit, never the other way round… or you’ll get into trouble!
3. La Novella: I Gelati di Fè
Via Ludovico Maresca, 14 – 18100 Imperia
We in Imperia would call it, in a word, gozzo (big adj. fig. excellent)
I Gelateria di Fè is the most recent in our city in terms of date of birth, but it has already managed to build up its clientele thanks to its extremely creamy, I would say, with a neologism pannosi in short… real meals!
4. L’Incantatrice: Gelateria Acquolina
Via Scarincio, 84 – 18100 Imperia
I have a friend who, heaven forbid, had to stop here after the sea because of his addiction to Acquolina ice cream! I swear! It was like a fixed appointment that you could not escape, and I remember as if it was yesterday that when ‘American peanuts’ appeared on the list of flavours (always displayed outside this micro-gelateria), it was always a party! Acquolina’s ice cream has this effect on so many people in Imperia… try it to believe it!
5. The Gourmet: Gelateria Corte
Largo Sergio Sabatini, 3 – 18100 Imperia
I warn you, lovers of classic-style ice cream might turn up their noses a little. In fact, the Gelateria Corte does not serve the usual flavours, but rather somewhat sophisticated proposals that cannot be found elsewhere. Forget the usual names and ingredients: if you are looking for something different, throw yourself into the choice of a slightly more daring combination!
P.s.: if you are outside Imperia, we recommend two unrivalled ice-cream shop:
to the west: Gelateria Artigianale – Lungo Mare CAP. D’Albertis, 13 – 18010 Santo Stefano al Mare
to the east: Il Negozietto del Gelato – Via della Resistenza, 15/17 – 18016 San Bartolomeo al Mare
It was tough but we managed to steal the recipe from Piera’s cookbook. To start savouring the flavours of Liguria, why not not to start with one of the most typical dishes of our tradition?
INGREDIENTS
1 rabbit (about 1.5 kg)
1 onion
2 cloves of garlic
1 glass of white wine
100 g olives
6 sprigs of thyme
2 sprigs of rosemary
2 bay leaves
20 gr pine nuts
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
Ground black pepper
Preparation of rabbit Ligurian style
To prepare the Ligurian style rabbit cut the rabbit into pieces. In a saucepan put a little oil and start to brown the sliced onion together with the chopped garlic. As soon as the garlic and onion are wilted, add the rabbit together with the thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Season lightly with salt and brown over a high heat so that all the meat is well sealed for a few minutes. Deglaze the rabbit stew Ligurian style with the wine and let the alcohol evaporate. Meanwhile, finely chop the rosemary leaves. When the alcohol has evaporated, add the olives, pine nuts, chopped rosemaryground pepper, stir and cook the rabbit Ligurian style on a low heat, covered, for about an hour, stirring occasionally and adding salt to taste towards the end of cooking. The rabbit stew Ligurian style will be ready when the meat separates easily from the bone. It is excellent accompanied by potatoes
All of us at the Relais del Maro have a passion in common, which perhaps many of you have noticed: good eating and drinking!
But that’s not all. We especially like to discover those products hidden in the centuries-old traditions of our valleys. During our research, the Natural Park of the Ligurian Alps was among the first we explored; its area stretches between the Arroscia Valley and the Argentina Valley, both rich in unique products.
Among these, the king is undoubtedly the Vessalico Garlic: a Slow Food presidium for its unique characteristics such as its delicate aroma, an intense almost spicy flavour and, above all, its extreme shelf life: when my grandfather brings me some, I can keep it in the fridge and use it for months! (Did you know that… the first weekend of July there is the Garlic Festival in Vessalico – 15 minutes from Relais del Maro)
Another product not to be missed is Brigasca sheep’s milk toma cheese, a Slow Food presidium in this area: its production has been linked to this territory for hundreds of years and its unique processing characteristics give it a strong flavour.
If the first two products are perhaps better known, you have to be a little more local to get to know Carpasina: it is a barley bread typical of Carpasio (a small village in the Arroscia Valley half an hour from Relais del Maro), similar to the more famous Apulian frisella. A bread as hard as stone, ‘pan d’ordiu‘, barley bread, indeed, stone-ground.
It is eaten in the fields, in the mountains, with a head of garlic (strictly from Vessalico) rubbed in before being soaked in spring water mixed with red wine vinegar. Then it is crumbled and mixed with tomato, anchovy, capers, onion, basil… a sort of pan bagnà from the Ligurian Alps.
And these are just some of the products we offer at the Relais, where the watchword is always: GO LOCAL!
Did you know that it is one of the lowest calorie cocktails ever? And that juniper berries have a myriad of beneficial effects on our bodies? There are even those who say that this mix of herbs is an excellent ally against cellulite..
How many more reasons do you need to drink a good gin and tonic? I know, you don’t need reasons, you just need a hot summer and a nice holiday (maybe at the Relais!)
Laughter aside, maybe I can still tell you something you don’t know… for example that in Liguria, gin is produced from at least 10 different producers.
“Martina but of course, we drank one at Relais!”
I know! Oleificio Roi’s Gin Taggiasco, which you know well, is the gin produced with taggiasca olives from our region and we already have it on our gins menu.
But which are the others?
1. Portofino Gin – Asti | Portofino Gin – Asti | Although it is produced in the Asti area, the bouquet of aromatics used comes entirely from the Portofino hills. Citrusy, floral, pleasantly spicy: what an icon!
2. Gin Ginuensis – Genova | “Ginuensis is smooth, clean and fragrant on the palate, with an almost sweet and lovable aftertaste. The spicy nose is reminiscent of oriental scenery… And other similar belinate” is how their creators describe it. Kaffir lime leaves, orange, liquorice and cumin, these are the suggestions of the Genoese gin par excellence. P.s.: and if you don’t know what a “belinata” is… well, click here but don’t be proud of it!
3. Camügin – Camogli (GE) | Camuginis the old Genoese name by which the inhabitants of the seaside village called the town of Camogli. Absolute protagonists: sea salt and the herbs of the Ligurian hills. One more reason to visit Camogli, besides the focaccia!
4. Gin Gino – Cengio (SV)| In the ORIGINE workshop, only raw materials from organic farming are processed. Here the granddaddy of all Ligurian gins is born: Gin Gino. A gin that doesn’t mince its words, so if you prefer soft, round flavours, it may not be for you
5. Gin Legend – Genova | A balanced gin, suitable for every palate but with a unique note that makes it perfectly recognisable (and therefore my super favourite): peppermint. Although…
6. Gin Mä – Genova | ..being in Liguria, I would rather say that the favourite can only be the only gin in the world produced with Basilico Genovese DOP! Two is better than one, said an advertisement, and here it is even better than three, four and five… the only botanicals used are in fact only two: basil and juniper.
7.“U Spessià” Gin – Savona | Didn’t we say at the beginning that gin and tonic is like a balm for the body? This gin produced by the Opificio Clandestino degli In-Fusi takes its name from the ancient figure of the pharmacist, who knew how to heal all ills thanks to his herbal mixes, in the words of Andrea Bruzzone.
8. 969 Gin – Genova | Again the scents of the city of Genoa enclosed in a bottle, thanks to the intense salty notes of the seaweed used as botanicals. In addition: orange peel, to soften its salinity..
9.Rusagni Gin – Rezzoaglio (GE)| From the Liquorificio Fabrizii di Rezzoaglio comes at last a nice warm gin, even in colour. Citrusy notes, local herbs, juniper: these are the ingredients of Rusagni, a gin ‘as it once was’.
The difficult part comes now: which one to choose to include in our gin list!
Aaah, Christmas traditions! Every region, city, town…actually every family has its own!
In mine, for example, we have always only celebrated with lunch on December 25th. And I have often thought: “That’s enough for me!”…and in fact, that’s enough indeed since there is always some leftover! So much so that another Christmas tradition is that of the “Leftovers Dinner”: friends or other family members meet for dinner and each brings a leftover from their Christmas lunch, so the party continues. In short, whether it’s for lunch or dinner, only on Christmas day or going through Boxing Day and starting Christmas Eve, there is a thin common thread that unites every Ligurian during the holidays:food!
Here are the three most common dishes that can be found on our tables during the holidays:
1. Ravioli
In ancient times, the typical first course was Natalini in broth, but as far as I’m concerned, ravioli is the best you can ask for in life for Christmas lunch. Tradition would like them with “Tocco” – the typical Genoese sauce prepared with minced beef, mushrooms, spices, tomato pulp and red wine – but I also love them the simple way, seasoned with butter and herbs.
2. Cappon Magro
If you have the time – 1 hour of preparation, 4 of rest, 2 of cooking – this is one of those dishes that will raise you to the level of starred chef. Cappon Magro, a dish which is difficult to say whether it is tastier or more spectacular, comes from the Genoese gastronomic tradition. Take a pen and paper and mark on the shopping list: capon, potatoes, green beans, carrots, prawns, tuna, octopus, beetroot, black salsify, white wine, bay leaf, juniper, olives, capers, pine nuts. It takes patience for this dish, but the result is truly mouth-watering.
3. Pandolce
In Borgomaro we know it well: the Pandolce prepared by Forno di Nonna Pierina, in fact, is a must both as a dessert at the end of a meal and also as a sweet present! The town eagerly awaits the first batches in November, when the streets smell of butter, raisins and pine nuts, which are the main ingredients of this delicacy. Even on television they talked about it and here we wrote about it too: Christmas in the village: christmas traditions in Liguria
